Olango Island

Another day, another adventure. Off the coast of our little island is an even littler island: Olango. As we often do, we headed off with optimism and a vague idea of where we were going and how we were getting there. Ok, Chad probably had more than a vague idea as he was our fearless leader and had gotten the inside scoop from his yoga instructor. And what a great adventure!

Though not far away it took a bit of doing to get there, tricycles and jeepneys and then a banca ride. The banca (boat) was part freight ferry part walk-on water taxi with all the locals, families and goods: a young boy perched on a stack of rugs princess and the pea style and moms nursing babies and gabbing with friends, kids napping and pulling each other’s hair. Happily our kids just did the napping. Or attempted napping.

Olango is home to both a bird sanctuary and marine sanctuary. Unfortunately we missed the prime time for the birds (2 hours before high tide) and for snorkeling ( high tide) but it meant we had a good time at low tide finding beautiful urchin shells and what we thought were starfish eggs. I know, now thinking about it, it doesn’t make sense, but that’s what we had been told they were. and they look like it. In reality they’re the puffed cousins of the sand dollar, exquisite and very fragile. And beautiful. It was like the girls’ personal Easter Egg Hunt. But with better prizes than jelly beans. In my opinion.

Though it was not ideal animal viewing time it was an amazingly gorgeous sunkissed day and the sanctuaries made for much more vegetation and quiet than we’ve been used to. It was fantastic. And Thank goodness for the wind! Standing too long in the sun sans wind made me feel like broiled…something! Hot! sizzling skin hot. Lechon! Luckily the wind is a delight, there were little shaded resting points along the stone slab path, and hats and long sleeves are my friend. You’d think I was the wicked witch of the west and the sun rain. But no, just a beautiful blue sky in paradise and luckily Chad and the girls are more protected and we’ve cottoned on to packing multiple bottles of water.

I hadn’t realized how much I missed greenery until we were riding on the back of a motorcycle through the green palms of Olango. The Island wasn’t exactly sleepy, the port was bustling with people loading and unloading, tricycles, people selling flasks of urchin “meat” (more on that later) but as we rode back onto the island, I realized I had been missing the fresh air and space. There are trees and plants where we live, but the green to people and and concrete ratio is weighted heavily away from the flora and here on Olango it felt the opposite.

After walking the long stretches out to view birds, we next walked the longest pedestrian bridge/pier I have been on. Considering that, it’s possibly not true, but I think the length felt increased by the unstable and pell-mell manner of it’s construction. The little slats of bamboo felt flimsy under my large sturdy feet and places that had obviously needed patch jobs felt less than reassuring. of course, it was perfectly safe (we made it across perfectly safely) and at the end found a beautiful view, shady chairs, breezes and new things to try: fresh sea urchin.

A man and woman were selling various shells, bracelets and coconuts, on which we all passed, but when we saw a plastic bag of urchins…well, naturally. For preparation the man sliced off the bottom of the urchin with his knife, tossed the bottom and the entrails off the side of the dock and then scraped the meat clinging to the inside ridges with a plastic spoon. The spoon, about half full of giggly tan-pink urchin was offered to Chad. Gulp. Gamely, Alys also tried. And with a good attitude too. And I am proud to say she kept it down. See pictures below. Her description to Marion: It tastes like biting your tongue and salt. and mucous. mixed with the sea. That girl has a knack for description makes my heart glow. And makes Marion say NO THANK YOU to trying the urchin. I tried too. To me it was ok, would probably be good with warm rice and some salmon. Brine-y and slimy. Very ocean in the mouth. Somewhere in the family of oysters and roe. Anywho, glad we tried, didn’t buy a flask on the way out.

Speaking of great description, one of my favorite lines and moments of the day was the sight of an iridescent, strikingly colored bird close off the long pier. Marion was delighted by it, jumping up and down and pointing. “Mom!! It’s beeeeauuutiful! It looks like a gem in the air!” Indeed, my love.

Heading home again, wind in their faces the girls soak it up. As we all try to.